An early autumn getaway to the barrier island off the Maryland Eastern Shore – Assateague Island, named by the Native Americans for “a marshy place across.”

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We motored down through driving rain, and our first foray onto the beach was cut short by a squall blowing, dramatically, across from the mainland.

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A quick retreat to the town of Berlin (stress on the first syllable) and the Victorian Hotel Atlantic.

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Sunday lived up to its name. The Atlantic Ocean unbelievably warm for one used to the bone numbing current off the Cape Town coast .

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The sunshine brought out Assateague Island’s famous feral horses – legend has it they were originally survivors of a shipwrecked Spanish galleon.

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Reclaimed by nature.

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